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Braising: A Meditation

citrus-and-chile-braised-short-ribs-2000x2000-1424956299-1The first time I tasted braised short ribs was at the restaurant I worked at in college. I was completely floored by their tender, incredibly rich texture and addictive flavor. Alongside porcini mushroom mashed potatoes, they were like stepping into heaven. I dreamed about them frequently as I moved around the dining room – and recommended them to every single table I served.

Before attempting the deed myself, I nervously consulted the chef, Javier, with a tentative tone:

“Javier, do you think I could, um, have your braised short ribs recipe?”

Humble as ever, he brushed it off like it was nothing:

“Oh, you just throw in carrots and celery, maybe some tomato sauce, red wine. Ah but make sure you cover everything with liquid completely, and get a tight lid.”

He was loose with ingredients but strict on technique – this made me more nervous. But I had to master this recipe – it was unbelievably delicious and looked really impressive. Plus, I had a big 19-year-old ego and thought I ruled the world. I would be the bearer of short ribs. I could taste the victory – and envision the look on my boyfriend’s face when I presented him with the elusive beef.

Although I had tons of experience in the kitchen at that point, braising was a whole different animal in my eyes, and I was scared. I texted Javier a million times to make sure I hadn’t forgotten anything, and to reassure myself that the meat was covered with liquid completely, and the lid was on tight.

He was annoyed by my acute attention to detail when it came to ingredients, but serious about the method, harping on me in broken English.

When the ribs turned out, I breathed a sigh of relief, as my boyfriend melted in total bliss. Mission accomplished.

Braising is similar to meditating: both activities intimidate most people, but they’re actually very simple once you embark.

So, how do you do it? The key to a good braise is building flavor at every layer, and yes, the cooking technique. You want to make sure you season at each step, from the raw meat to your stock (preferably homemade!), to your finishing glaze.

From a holistic perspective, cooking meat in this technique is very grounding and soothing, and aides in mineral absorption and digestion. I should also mention that this recipe is literally the key to most human hearts – it’s a little dangerous. Don’t pull this one out unless you’re serious about him (or her).

Divinity aside, this dish is excellent for those following the Paleo approach, or anyone wanting a slow-release meal – meaning it won’t spike your blood sugar, then leave you hungry and cranky an hour later. When paired with celeriac purée and kale salad, this meal boasts protein, fiber, complex carbohydrates, essential fats, countless phytonutrients and antioxidants.

Because who doesn’t want deep physical and mental satisfaction, high energy and gorgeous skin?

Chinese Five Spice Braised Short Ribs

Ingredients

1 lb. bone-in beef short ribs, preferably local and/or organic
5 T ground Chinese Five Spice
1 large yellow onion
3 stalks celery
2 carrots
3 garlic cloves
2-inch piece ginger
1 grapefruit
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup mirin rice wine
1/3 cup brown rice vinegar
1 T chili paste
6 cups fish stock
¾ cup coconut palm sugar
3 T maple syrup
1 cup gluten-free flour
2 T arrowroot
¼ cup water
sesame oil
salt
black pepper
white pepper

Technique

Combine gluten-free flour and five spice in large bowl. Salt and pepper short ribs on both sides, then coat thoroughly in flour mixture. Add liberal sesame oil to heavy-bottomed pot and bring to high heat. When pot is very hot, sear short ribs for 3-5 minutes on each side, creating a golden-brown crust. Put short ribs aside on plate.

Chop onion and add to pot with additional sesame oil, then add roughly chopped celery, carrots, ginger and garlic. Cut grapefruit into four pieces and add to pot. Add coconut palm sugar and maple syrup to pot and combine. Add salt, black pepper and white pepper to taste. Next add soy sauce, mirin rice wine, brown rice vinegar and chili paste. Let simmer for five minutes.

Add short ribs back to pot, nesting among fruits and vegetables. Cover completely with fish stock. I made homemade fish stock by simmering onions, carrots, celery and bonito flakes in water for an hour or so.

Cover pot with a tight lid and transfer to a 300 degree oven. Cook for 4 hours, or until short ribs are fork-tender.

When done, remove short ribs from liquid and place on a separate plate.

Strain liquid, discard vegetables and fruit, then transfer liquid back to pot. Dissolve arrowroot in ¼ cup water. Whisk into liquid, creating a thick glaze.

Plate with celeriac purée and kale salad, and finish meat with glaze.

Massaged Kale Salad with Miso Dressing and Caramelized Sesame Carrots

Ingredients

1 bunch kale
3 carrots
4 T sesame oil
1 T white miso
1 T yuzu (Japanese citrus – available at Asian markets)
3 T sesame seeds
1 T honey
salt
white pepper

Technique

Clean, dry and chiffonade kale. Put 3 T of sesame oil in small bowl. Whisk in yuzu and white miso. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Pour over kale and massage thoroughly for five minutes or more.

Clean, dry and julienne carrots. Add 1 T sesame oil to pan and bring to medium-high heat. Add carrots. Sauté for five minutes, add ¼ cup water and continue simmering to soften. Add sesame seeds and honey and allow to cook as water evaporates. Add salt to taste.

Garnish kale salad with carrots.

Still have braising woes? Shoot me a note at lula@lulabrown.com and I’ll back you up – just like Javier supported me.

Photo: Bon Appetit

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  1. I have had Lula prepare this yummy dish in my home. I just made it myself last night. It is just the right balance of sweet, pungent,spicy and savory for one of my favorite beef fixes.
    Indeed do give it a try.
    Bon Appetito!